Here are some of the more difficult repairs we are occasionally asked to do.
Repairs are important to us.
I think that body shape and preferences change as you gain or lose weight.
To wear good clothes for a long time, repairs and alterations will be necessary.
We will discuss your wishes and the feasibility of repairs and decide how to go about repairing it.
This time it's a jacket from an Italian luxury brand.
When altering a tailored jacket in its entirety, the repair dimensions are large and it is difficult to modify the shoulders.
The particularly difficult part this time was shortening the length by 7cm.
Because the pockets and collar need to be balanced, it's not as simple as just cutting 7cm.
Repairs are distributed at the shoulders and hem.
Repair details
- Shorten the width of the body - Shorten the length - Shorten the shoulder width - Shorten the sleeve length - Buttonholes on the cuffs -
Size 50
It appears to be two sizes larger based on the customer's nude measurements.
If you've lost more than 10kg, there's nothing you can do about it.
First, take apart your clothes.
Changing the shoulders will also change the collar and sleeves, so we work while imagining the overall finished product in the design (pattern).
First, reduce the width of the body from the side seam line.
This garment had a 2cm seam allowance. Normal ready-made garments only have a 1cm seam allowance. Since it is not intended to be repaired, this is an example of manufacturing that prioritizes efficiency.
Even 2cm seems reasonable to me.
Moreover, since the fabric is soft, there is anti-stretch fabric on the back. That's very thoughtful.
After the width, adjust the length at the shoulders.
At this point, shorten the length by 3.5cm.
Your shoulders will naturally become narrower.
Depending on the pattern, reducing the shoulder length by 3.5cm will reduce the shoulder width by 2cm or more.
This time, we only need to reduce the shoulder width by 1cm, so we will adjust the shoulder width by moving the side neck.
Check the whole body and adjust the shoulders while keeping them in place so that they are not stretched.
3.5cm was also cut from the hem, shortening the overall length by 7cm.
Currently, the shoulders have been shortened by 3.5cm, so the collar does not fit too large and we will make it smaller.
We then attach the smaller collar while keeping an eye on it, and check the balance.
Next we will attach the sleeves, but since the armhole has changed in shape from the original, we will reshape the armhole and attach the sleeves intuitively.
The sleeves are a matter of feel.
A common issue with factory-made jackets is that the sleeves don't fit properly.
The theory goes that if you mark the pattern in detail and align the marks perfectly according to the design, it will come out beautifully, but
Fabric is a living thing, so it will expand and shrink during sewing.
The stretch rate also varies depending on the fabric.
In the end, by the time the sleeves are attached, the armhole changes and it doesn't fit according to the pattern.
I think it's really difficult.
This time, the gorge was designed to be low, so we were able to make it this short.
Depending on the balance of the original clothes, we will consult with you and try to make it as good as possible by changing it.
Please contact us first.